This should be a standard interface via DEB_BUILD_OPTIONS, because
dh_builddeb / dpkg-deb is not the only way to build compliant binary
packages.
Policy §4.9 explains:
Both binary-* targets should depend on the build target, or on the
appropriate build-arch or build-indep target, if provided, so that the
package is built if it has not been already. It should then create the
relevant binary package(s), using dpkg-gencontrol to make their control
files and dpkg-deb to build them [...]
Do any packages violate that?