How about this?
ls -lRA | awk '/^[cdlps-]/ {b += $5; f += 1} \
END {print b " bytes in " f " files"}'
or
find . -ls | awk '{b += $7; f += 1} \
END {print b " bytes in " f " files"}'
But they doesn't count the inodes and the first command doesn't count
the ".", i.e., the current working directory itself.
--
Regards,
Jörg-Volker.